18K Gold Iberian Bird Emerald and Ruby Earrings

The Iberian peninsula is a mix of cultures; as such, the antique jewelry from that area is hand-made, exotic, and intriguing. This unusual pair of earrings are shaped like birds and are encrusted with table cut emeralds and rubies on the wings and body. The top part of the earrings is an arrow shape. Dangling below it are the birds, which mirror each other in direction so that, when worn, the birds face each other. The birds connect to three tear-shaped drops that have beautiful ribbing around a table cut stone in each. A dark patina has appeared in the ribbing as the gold oxidized over time, creating a black and gold striped effect that is truly gorgeous. Iberians liked movement in their earrings, and this articulated pair has great length and graceful movement. There are eight table cut emeralds and four table cut rubies in each earring, plus round emeralds that denote the eye of the bird. Circa the 1850’s, these earrings are completely handmade and a treasure from the era. You won’t see another pair like this! 

These earrings were found in Madrid on a recent buying trip. We are not sure what birds symbolize in Iberian jewelry, but on our trip, we saw a similar shaped bird earring at the National Archeological Museum of Spain (see photo) that date back to the 13th century, suggesting it is a recurring theme or myth that has importance. 

The Iberian peninsula consists of modern day Spain, Portugal, and France, and was a powerful empire after the fall of the Roman Empire until Napoleon’s invasion in the early 19th century. Because the peninsula was home to a mixture of Jews, Muslims, and Catholics, the distinctive styles of each culture merged and influenced each other over time. Relics, crosses, and Morrish designs can all be found in Iberian jewelry, along with influences of a rich and diverse cross-cultural artistic tradition. Portugal and Spain were international powers during the Renaissance, which allowed them to acquire gemstones from across the world through trade and conquest. This, along with the Portuguese gold rush, impacted the amount of jewelry made in Iberia, and the ornate jewelry making traditions that were passed down to the Georgian and Victorian eras, and still seen in both antique and contemporary jewelry attributed to the Iberian peninsula. 

The earrings measure 1.75” x 13/16”. They have large earring wires that catch into hooks, giving them great length and dangle. The entire earring (including the wire) is 2 3/8”. Combined, the earrings weigh 8.5 grams. 

The earrings contain sixteen table cut emeralds, two round emeralds, and eight table cut rubies. All the stones in the earrings are natural antique stones. The earrings are unmarked but acid test as 18k. 

Circa 1850’s.