Blackmagic Design Spares - ATEM 2M/E Panel - PCB Right Side

The Blackmagic Design Spares - ATEM 2 M/E Panel - PCB (Right Side) is the internal control board located under the right-hand section of the legacy 2 M/E Advanced Panel or the original 2 M/E Broadcast Panel.

In a 2 M/E panel, the electronics are often split into sections to manage the massive amount of tactile data. The Right Side PCB typically handles the System Control area, including the LCD Menu Screen, the Numeric Keypad, and the Joystick/Trackball interface (depending on the specific generation of the panel).

Core Responsibilities

• Menu & LCD Interface: Drives the right-side LCD screen where you adjust settings like Chroma Key parameters, transitions, and system IP addresses.

• Soft Knobs & Encoders: Manages the rotary encoders located underneath the LCD that allow for fine-tuning of values.

• Joystick/Trackball Processing: Interprets the X, Y, and Z (twist) axis data for DVE positioning and color grading.

• Numeric Entry: Processes the "10-key" pad used for entering transition rates, clip numbers, and IP settings.

• Local Logic: Communicates the right-side user inputs back to the Master Controller PCB located in the center of the panel.

When to Replace the Right Side PCB

• LCD Failure: The right-side screen is white, flickering, or has "dead lines," but the rest of the panel (buttons and faders) works perfectly.

• Encoder Drift: When you turn the knobs under the screen, the values on the display jump erratically or don't move at all.

• Joystick Malfunction: The DVE or PIP windows "drift" to the side, or the joystick no longer responds to movement.

• Keypad "Ghosting": Pressing numbers on the right-side keypad results in the wrong numbers appearing or no response at all.

• Liquid Damage: This section is often where operators place their coffee or water; a spill on the right side usually fries this specific board without killing the whole panel.

Technical Installation Note

Repair Level: 3 (Moderate). 1. Bottom Access: You must flip the entire 2 M/E panel (which is heavy) and remove a large number of screws to take off the bottom protective plate.

2. Ribbon Cable Mapping: This board is connected to the center "Master" board via a long ribbon cable. Ensure the cable is seated perfectly flat; if it is slightly crooked, you may get "garbage" data on the LCD.

3. Joystick Re-centering: If you replace this board, you may need to perform a Joystick Calibration in the panel’s "Maintenance" menu to tell the new PCB where the "dead center" position is.

4. Knob Removal: You will likely need to pull the plastic caps off the rotary encoders on the top side before the PCB can be dropped out of the chassis.

Diagnostic: Right Side PCB vs. Main Panel PCB

• It's the Right Side PCB if: Only the menu screen, joystick, or numeric keypad are failing.

• It's the Main Master PCB if: The entire panel won't boot, won't connect to the switcher over the network, or if the transition fader/buttons are also dead.

Pro-Tip: Cleaning before Replacing

Before ordering a new board due to "jumpy" encoders (the knobs under the screen):

1. Remove the plastic knob cap.

2. Use a tiny amount of DeoxIT Fader F-Series or high-grade contact cleaner on the encoder stem.

3. Rotate it vigorously for 30 seconds.

   This often fixes "skipping" menus and can save you from a full board replacement.

Are you experiencing a failure with the LCD screen specifically, or is the joystick/trackball not responding?