SKU: 74072426888

ESR 5 Speed Rebuilt Race Ready Transmissions

Sale price$742.50 Regular price$825.00
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Ships within 48 hours · Estimated delivery Aug 29 - Sep 3

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Description

ESR 5 Speed Rebuilt Race Ready TransmissionsNow offering the newly legal SM upgraded gear set! We are offering our 5 Speed Race ready rebuilt transmissions to the SM community. These transmissions are fully gone through, All the synchros, sliders and shift forks are changed. We harden the shift forks for improved durability. We start with a street version, not a wore out trans that came out of a race car. We have sold over 350 of these transmissions and they really are the best out there. These

Now offering the newly legal SM upgraded gear set!

We are offering our 5 Speed Race ready rebuilt transmissions to the SM community. These transmissions are fully gone through, All the synchros, sliders and shift forks are changed. We harden the shift forks for improved durability. We start with a street version, not a wore out trans that came out of a race car. We have sold over 350 of these transmissions and they really are the best out there. These aren't assembled by someone in their spare time, These are built by a professional who builds manual race boxes daily. They shift better than any I have ever driven and I have used them all. These transmissions have far less drag than any of the competitors units out there as well. They are set up perfectly and no detail is over looked.

We sell 90-05 transmissions, we don't need a core.

All boxes come with new hardened synchro springs and the counter shaft sleeve.

    Vehicle Applications:

    • 1990-2005 Mazda Miata 1.6L & 1.8L NA6, NA8, NB1, & NB2

    For upgraded gear set ONLY:

    When you purchase the upgraded gear set, this kit includes the following:

    • 2nd gear - uses NA 1 piece synchro - 0000-02-5812
    • 3rd gear - 0000-02-5813
    • Input shaft - 0000-02-5810
    • Counter shaft - 0000-02-5811
    • 5th gear pair - 0000-02-5814
    • Counter shaft reinforcement collar - 0000-02-5816
    • 5th gear thrust washer - 0000-02-5817
    • 5/R hub assembly - 0000-02-5815

    Break in is required. Use of a racing 75w-140, such as Motul Competition Gear 75w-140, is required for break in. As much non racing time as possible is suggested for break in whether it be on a dyno, half speed track days, or even idling in each gear on the lift. Whatever you can do to get as much rotation time on the gears as possible before racing is needed. Drain and fill oil after break in.

    Use of a racing 75w-140 gear oil is suggested. 75w-90 at minimum, but again, 140 is suggested. Do NOT use a non "gear oil" such as synchromesh, MTL, or ATF. A proper gear oil that floats gears and thrust surfaces appropriately creates less "drag" with these gears, and the OE gears, than a "thin" oil.

      Shipping Notes
      • Free Standard Shipping on $100+ Orders to the USA.
      • Except Preorder products are shipped in 48 hours.
      • Delivery to the USA:
      1. Standard Shipping : 3-10 business days
      • If time is of the essence, please consider selecting expedited delivery for faster service.
      Exchange/Return Notes
      • We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
      • Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
      • To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
      • Please click here for more details>>> Return & Exchange Policy
      SKU: 74072426888

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      4.4 ★★★★★
      Based on 7 reviews
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      R
      Verified Purchase
      Rhbones
      New York, US
      ★★★★★ 5
      Works for my 2011 115hp Etec
      Size: For 75-250 HP
      Exact fit and cheaper than a trip to a repair shop. Make sure you have the proper gasket sealer, a good scrapper that's not going to dig into the sealing surface, and tools for the job. I went on my computer and downloaded a video that walked me through the process. I'm a mechanic by trade but wanted to ensure everything was correct. I've been running the motor now for a couple of months. Peeing just as it's supposed to. No more delivering, waiting, and retrieving my boat from the shop for its routine service. Just follow your owner's manual to make sure you do all the necessary maintenance.
      WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
      Reviewed in the United States on February 8, 2025
      C
      Verified Purchase
      Chelsey R
      Draper, US
      ★★★★★ 5
      Great replacement
      Size: For 5.5HP 6HP 7.5HP
      Works as it should. Easy to swap out.
      WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
      Reviewed in the United States on August 12, 2025
      D
      Verified Purchase
      Dan
      Phoenix, US
      ★★★★★ 5
      Works
      Size: For 60 65 70 75 HP
      Works great
      WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
      Reviewed in the United States on May 21, 2026
      B
      Verified Purchase
      Billy kinney
      Grantham, US
      ★★★★★ 4
      Great product
      Size: For 85-300 HP
      Complete rebuild kit for $38 and great quality and fast delivery
      WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
      Reviewed in the United States on August 30, 2025
      G
      Verified Purchase
      grog
      Massapequa, US
      ★★★★★ 5
      If pump doesn't seem to work
      Size: For 85-300 HP, Size: For 85-300 HP
      Hi....I apologize it took me a while to get back to you with my results. Here is what I discovered about the pump and will also apply to some of the other comments I read in the reviews with people not getting the pump to work: 1.) I removed the pump to check the proper direction of the impeller and it was correct as can be seen in the photo. 2.) I built a pump shaft attachement so that I could operate the pump with a power drill. 3.) I attached the water muff to the unit and tried to pump water.....it wouldn't do so. What I did see however was that even at high hose discharge and small leakage at the muff I could not fill the water cavity in the housing. 4.) I installed a strap around the muff and tightened it very tight and THEN at high hose pressure I was able to get the cavity to fill with water. 5.) At that point I activated the drill and was able to get the pump to actually pump water. I then removed the pump housing and removed the O-Ring that resides on top of the impeller, reassembled and it would not pump water. Since the O-Ring sits higher than the original does I wanted to make sure that it was necessary to have it in the pump. 6.) I reassembled the engine and kept the tight strap on the bottom and finally it pumped water into the engine. My conclusion that you can reply to other buyers if they have a problem: Do NOT underestimate 2 things....1.)the lack of ability of the pump to draw water up AND 2.)the fact that if the muff leaks it will NOT fill the cavity when common sense says it should. This was a 120hp Johnson. The engine bottom must be immersed fully or the muff must be very tight on the lower unit for the pump to function. Please feel free to post this if you wish.
      WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
      Reviewed in the United States on August 12, 2024

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