285671 Washer Lid Switch - For Whirlpool & Kenmore Washers

285671 Washer Lid Switch - For Whirlpool & Kenmore Washers285671 Washer Lid Switch Assembly Key Features Safety Interlock System: Prevents the washer from spinning while the lid is open, ensuring user safety during high speed operations. Direct Drive Design: Specifically engineered for Whirlpool built direct drive washing machines without a drive belt. Enhanced Contact Points: Features high quality internal electrical contacts to ensure consistent signal transmission to the motor and timer. Complete

285671 Washer Lid Switch Assembly

Key Features

• Safety Interlock System: Prevents the washer from spinning while the lid is open, ensuring user safety during high-speed operations.
• Direct-Drive Design: Specifically engineered for Whirlpool-built direct-drive washing machines without a drive belt.
• Enhanced Contact Points: Features high-quality internal electrical contacts to ensure consistent signal transmission to the motor and timer.
• Complete Assembly: Includes the switch mechanism, mounting bracket, and specialized wiring harness for a seamless fit.

Replaces / Cross-Reference Part Numbers

• AP3094500
• PS334600
• 285671VP
• 3352629
• 3352634
• 3355808
• 8134
• 2927
• EAP334600
• ES671

Compatibility & Fitment

This lid switch is compatible with thousands of top-load washer models manufactured by the Whirlpool Corporation across several brand names:

• Whirlpool: Fits a wide array of classic top-load models.
• Kenmore / Sears: Compatible with many 110-series direct-drive washers.
• Roper & Estate: Fits most standard top-load units using the 285671 part configuration.
• KitchenAid & Admiral: Compatible with select older top-load platforms.
• Amana: Fits specific models produced during the Whirlpool transition era.

When to Replace

• No Spin Cycle: The machine drains the water but will not enter the spin phase, even though the motor hums or the timer advances.
• Inoperative Machine: The washer refuses to start any cycle, as it cannot detect that the lid is closed.
• Broken Lever Arm: The plastic actuator that detects the lid pin is snapped, cracked, or missing.
• Burned Connector: Visible charring or melting on the three-prong plug or the switch housing.
• Testing Failure: A continuity test with a multimeter shows an open circuit when the switch button is fully depressed.

Installation Tips

• Safety First: Disconnect the power cord and turn off the water supply before beginning any disassembly.
• Cabinet Removal: For many models, you must remove the two screws at the base of the console, flip it up, and then release the brass clips to remove the entire outer cabinet.
• Grounding Connection: Ensure the green ground wire is securely screwed into the metal frame of the washer during installation.
• Harness Routing: Route the wires through the existing plastic clips to prevent them from rubbing against the tub during vibration.
• Final Check: Before reassembling the cabinet, ensure the lid pin aligns perfectly with the switch lever to prevent mechanical binding.