SKU: 38086864539

COMP Cams Pushrods Hi-Tech 5/16 8.150

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Description

COMP Cams Pushrods Hi-Tech 5/16 8.150The Pushrod is one of the most important pieces of the valve train, but all too often it's taken for granted. pushrods not only have to be strong enough to not fail, bend or burn up at the ends, they must also match the frequency of all the rest of the pa parts in the valve train, as well as the rpm at which the engine will be run. Today's all out race engines demand the highest quality components at every step, and COMP Cams Hi Tech pushrods fill

The Pushrod is one of the most important pieces of the valve train, but all too often it's taken for granted. pushrods not only have to be strong enough to not fail, bend or burn up at the ends, they must also match the frequency of all the rest of the pa parts in the valve train, as well as the rpm at which the engine will be run. Today's all-out race engines demand the highest quality components at every step, and COMP Cams Hi-Tech pushrods fill that requirement. Hi-Techâ„¢ pushrods feature a one-piece design from .080" wall, seamless chromemoly tubing that ensures the ultimate in strength and durability. Ends are precision formed, yielding added thickness and strength in the critical tip area, while maintaining constant wall thickness and concentricity. The pushrods are then heat-treated for maximum strength to ensure compatibility with guide plates. They are OD ground for consistency and black-oxide finished with length and part number laser etched on the OD for ease of identification.

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This Part Fits:

Year Make Model Submodel
1981-1993 Ford Bronco Custom
1985-1995 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer
1981 Ford Bronco Ranger XLT
1990-1995 Ford Bronco XL
1982-1983 Ford Bronco XLS
1984-1992,1994-1995 Ford Bronco XLT
1982-1983,1993 Ford Bronco XLT Lariat
1992 Ford Bronco XLT Nite
1995 Ford Bronco XLT Sport
1969-1974 Ford Country Sedan Base
1969-1974 Ford Country Squire Base
1969-1972 Ford Custom Base
1969-1974,1976-1977 Ford Custom 500 Base
1975-1982 Ford E-100 Econoline Base
1975-1982 Ford E-100 Econoline Chateau
1975-1983 Ford E-100 Econoline Custom
1975-1978 Ford E-100 Econoline Northland
1983 Ford E-100 Econoline XL
1975-1982 Ford E-100 Econoline Club Wagon Base
1975-1982 Ford E-100 Econoline Club Wagon Chateau
1975-1983 Ford E-100 Econoline Club Wagon Custom
1975-1978 Ford E-100 Econoline Club Wagon Northland
1983 Ford E-100 Econoline Club Wagon XL
1975-1982,1984-1986,1992-1995 Ford E-150 Econoline Base
1975-1982 Ford E-150 Econoline Chateau
1975-1983,1987-1991 Ford E-150 Econoline Custom
1975-1978 Ford E-150 Econoline Northland
1983-1995 Ford E-150 Econoline XL
1975-1982,1984-1986 Ford E-150 Econoline Club Wagon Base
1975-1982,1992-1995 Ford E-150 Econoline Club Wagon Chateau
1975-1983,1987-1995 Ford E-150 Econoline Club Wagon Custom
1975-1978 Ford E-150 Econoline Club Wagon Northland
1983-1991 Ford E-150 Econoline Club Wagon XL
1984-1995 Ford E-150 Econoline Club Wagon XLT
1975-1982,1984-1986,1992-1995 Ford E-250 Econoline Base
1975-1982 Ford E-250 Econoline Chateau
1975-1983,1987-1991 Ford E-250 Econoline Custom
1975-1978 Ford E-250 Econoline Northland
1983-1995 Ford E-250 Econoline XL
1975-1982,1984-1986 Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon Base
1975-1982 Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon Chateau
1975-1983,1987-1991 Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon Custom
1975-1978 Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon Northland
1983-1991 Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon XL
1984-1991 Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon XLT
1975-1982,1984-1986,1992-1995 Ford E-350 Econoline Base
1975-1982 Ford E-350 Econoline Chateau
1975-1983,1987-1991 Ford E-350 Econoline Custom
1975-1978 Ford E-350 Econoline Northland
1983-1995 Ford E-350 Econoline XL
1977-1982,1984-1986 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Base
1977-1982,1992-1995 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Chateau
1992-1995 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Chateau HD
1977-1983,1987-1995 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Custom
1992-1993 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Custom HD
1977-1978 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Northland
1983-1991 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon XL
1994-1995 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon XL HD
1984-1989,1991-1995 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon XLT
1992-1995 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon XLT HD
1975-1976 Ford Elite Base
1981 Ford F-100 Custom
1981 Ford F-100 Ranger
1981 Ford F-100 Ranger Lariat
1981 Ford F-100 Ranger XLT
1983-1986 Ford F-150 Base
1981-1982,1987-1992 Ford F-150 Custom
1995 Ford F-150 Eddie Bauer
1993-1995 Ford F-150 Lightning
1981 Ford F-150 Ranger
1981 Ford F-150 Ranger Lariat
1981 Ford F-150 Ranger XLT
1995 Ford F-150 Special
1982-1995 Ford F-150 XL
1982-1983 Ford F-150 XLS
1983-1984,1993-1995 Ford F-150 XLT
1982,1985-1992 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
1983-1986 Ford F-250 Base
1981-1982,1987-1992 Ford F-250 Custom
1995 Ford F-250 Eddie Bauer
1981 Ford F-250 Ranger
1981 Ford F-250 Ranger Lariat
1981 Ford F-250 Ranger XLT
1995 Ford F-250 Special
1982-1995 Ford F-250 XL
1982-1983 Ford F-250 XLS
1983-1984,1993-1995 Ford F-250 XLT
1982,1985-1992 Ford F-250 XLT Lariat
1983-1986 Ford F-350 Base
1981-1982,1987-1992 Ford F-350 Custom
1995 Ford F-350 Eddie Bauer
1981 Ford F-350 Ranger
1981 Ford F-350 Ranger Lariat
1981 Ford F-350 Ranger XLT
1995 Ford F-350 Special
1982-1995 Ford F-350 XL
1982-1983 Ford F-350 XLS
1983-1984,1993-1995 Ford F-350 XLT
1982,1985-1992 Ford F-350 XLT Lariat
1969 Ford Fairlane 500
1969 Ford Fairlane Base
1969-1974 Ford Galaxie 500 Base
1969-1970 Ford Galaxie 500 XL
1972-1976 Ford Gran Torino Base
1973-1976 Ford Gran Torino Brougham
1974-1975 Ford Gran Torino Elite
1972-1975 Ford Gran Torino Sport
1972-1976 Ford Gran Torino Squire
1975-1977 Ford Granada Base
1975-1977 Ford Granada Ghia
1969-1974,1976-1982 Ford LTD Base
1970-1974,1976 Ford LTD Brougham
1979-1981,1983-1986 Ford LTD Country Squire
1986 Ford LTD Country Squire LX
1980-1986 Ford LTD Crown Victoria
1986 Ford LTD Crown Victoria LX
1976-1979 Ford LTD Landau
1980-1982 Ford LTD S
1988-1991 Ford LTD Crown Victoria Base
1977-1979 Ford LTD II Base
1977-1978 Ford LTD II Brougham
1979 Ford LTD II Landau
1977-1979 Ford LTD II S
1977 Ford LTD II Squire
1969-1970 Ford Mustang Base
1970 Ford Mustang Grande
1970 Ford Mustang Mach 1
1969-1970 Ford Mustang Shelby GT-350
1995 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra R
1969-1974 Ford Ranch Wagon Base
1970 Ford Ranch Wagon Police Cruiser
1969,1972-1979 Ford Ranchero 500
1969 Ford Ranchero Base
1969,1972-1979 Ford Ranchero GT
1972-1979 Ford Ranchero Squire
1977-1979 Ford Thunderbird Base
1978 Ford Thunderbird Diamond Jubilee
1979 Ford Thunderbird Heritage
1978-1979 Ford Thunderbird Town Landau
1971 Ford Torino 500
1969-1976 Ford Torino Base
1970-1971 Ford Torino Brougham
1971 Ford Torino Cobra
1969-1971 Ford Torino GT
1969-1971 Ford Torino Squire
1980 Lincoln Continental Base
1980 Lincoln Mark VI Base
1977 Lincoln Versailles Base
1971 Mercury Colony Park Base
1969 Mercury Comet Base
1969-1970,1977-1979 Mercury Cougar Base
1977 Mercury Cougar Brougham
1977 Mercury Cougar Villager
1969-1970,1974-1979 Mercury Cougar XR-7
1969 Mercury Cyclone Base
1969 Mercury Cyclone CJ
1969 Mercury Cyclone Spoiler
1978-1981,1986 Mercury Grand Marquis Base
1979-1981 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park
1986 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
1971-1974,1978-1981 Mercury Marquis Base
1971-1974,1978-1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
1975-1977 Mercury Monarch Base
1975-1977 Mercury Monarch Ghia
1976 Mercury Monarch Grand Ghia
1969,1972-1976 Mercury Montego Base
1975 Mercury Montego Brougham
1972-1973 Mercury Montego GT
1969,1972-1976 Mercury Montego MX
1972-1974,1976 Mercury Montego MX Brougham
1976 Mercury Montego MX Villager
1972-1975 Mercury Montego Villager
1971 Mercury Monterey Base
1971 Mercury Monterey Custom
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SKU: 38086864539

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4.5 ★★★★★
Based on 29 reviews
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Product Reviews
E
Verified Purchase
Eric J. Jenislawski
Chelsea, US
★★★★★ 5
Great result, exceptional value, and easy, forgiving application.
Size: TRIM COAT KIT
I am thoroughly pleased with the results of this product, and the application was easier than I expected. Outstanding stuff. I am writing a longer review in case it helps people who are unsure about a "once and done" product that calls itself permanent. It's not hard to apply. It is forgiving and there's time to even it out. But here are some things to anticipate. My use case: I used Cerakote to restore the plastic trim on a used 2014 black Dodge Challenger that had been repainted but the plastic trim was original and it had been kept outside by the prior owner, so the contrast between the new paint and faded trim was noticeable. The trim was originally a deep, dark gray (it is never as black as the paint). It had faded to a medium-gray in many places: running boards on the side beneath the door, below the read bumper (which were also somewhat worn from debris), around the tail lights, and the plastic piece beneath the windshield wipers between the windshield and the hood. These were all looking weathered. The trim was very oxidized in some places, chalky grey near the hood and around the back bumper. The plastic around the tail lights also had light streaks in it from where water drains down from the trunk. What else I tried before I tried Cerakote: I got middling results from Mother's Back to Black. It looked somewhat better for a week or two, and then it went back to looking as before. Not impressed. I got a tip online to try rubbing the plastic trim with a melamine magic eraser, so I did that next, and this made a significant difference. Melamine is abrasive, so be careful if you do this on your trim. I went gently, up-and-down, side-to-side and in small circles, by hand, with gentle pressure like one would with a polishing compound. By removing the oxidation, the plastic was a few shades darker in the worst spots and the streaking on the rear tail light piece was gone. The rough spots on the trim at the bottom of the car and around the wheels looked somewhat better. But it certainly did not "like new." Cerakote experience: I decided to give Cerakote a try based on the video and good reviews. Bam! Back to factory-like deep dark gray. I wish I had taken pictures. It's incredible. Fully satisfied! I had already washed the trim with Dawn dish soap. I started with the trim bone dry. You are warned everywhere that water droplets will ruin the result, so don't expect to do this process right after you wash the car unless you like to live dangerously and have compressed air to spray cracks and crevices. I was worried that application would be streaky if I didn't do it right. Not so. It is forgiving. Here's what I learned. 1) The first 20% of what you'll get out of the packet goes on heavy with the lightest touch. One packet goes a long way. The next 60% is the "normal" application. This goes on the easiest. You can really milk the last drop out of each towelette, but I didn't because the last 20% of what you can get out of it by rubbing it really hard comes out very light and is not worth the uneven application unless you have some random area you don't care much about and want to use the remainder for that. I only used 5 packets to do the whole car. When you start a new packet, the beginning is where you might want to go back later and even it out once the application gets more normal. Or better, start a new packet on a big section to spread it around well and then move to smaller trim when the towelette is less fresh. 2) You've got time to work with it and make corrections. It stayed liquid like water for at least 20 minutes in my conditions: about 80 degrees, not very humid, indirect sunlight on an 80 degree car. Don't apply in direct sun or on a hot car. The product then gets sticky as it cures, but you can still work with it during the sticky time, rubbing it in and spreading it evenly with the towelette. I did not use a microfiber to "knock down" heavy spots. I just came back around with the towelette. I think a dry microfiber might pull off too much product. When it is half-cured, it is sticky and you can buff it with the towelette at this stage to further flatten and even things out. Work in sections, one piece of trim at a time. 3) Overlaps won't show as long as you rub it all in thoroughly. I tried the overlapping parallel passes method that they recommend, and this works pretty well. I was worried that I might get a "double heavy" streak where the passes overlap but this not so unless the towelette is fresh, but this is fixable. You can do a pretty natural, casual back-and-forth motion for the most part and it comes out fine. This is NOT a super-finicky product. I made a second or third back-and-forth pass in a few areas, and used circular motion in some places where the trim was textured or a little rough from wear, and it all looked even in the end. Just rub it down into the plastic and even out the sheen while it is uncured and it's good. 4) It cures like you see it when it's still wet. It doesn't lighten up very much as it cures. It just looks a little less wet. So get it right by eye when it is wet and that's pretty much what you will still have in an hour when it is cured. 5) Don't miss a spot! You'll see it for sure if you do because the different is so dramatic. And a "second coat" is not easy or recommended. This is the only once-and-done part that you want to get right, and you have plenty of cure time to be thorough. 6) Use the folded corner of the towelette to get into small corners and edges, like where the trim meets the paint or has an inside corner or some little nook. A fresh towelette is great for getting into small areas because a feather touch applies plenty of product when the towelette is fresh. The trim now looks amazing and I am entirely satisfied. I will use Cerakote on my other vehicles. The only minor con is a strong ammonia smell when you are up close to it while it is wet. No smell once it is cured. I would definitely wear the recommended gloves while applying. As others say, you will probably drop that towelette on the ground. It's slippery when wet. Keep it folded in quarters as it comes for ease of application. Turn to a new quarter once a side gets dirty or dry and fold it inside out for four more quarters to use. Bonus, but off-label -- at your own risk: The product is not intended for the soft rubber around the windows, but I tried it there too, and it looks amazing. All I did was wash the rubber with dish soap like the trim, and I rubbed it a few times with a wet microfiber cloth to get the superficial layer of oxidized rubber off. Then I applied Cerakote. It looks great. The rubber used to be blotchy and faded. The microfiber evened this out a little. I would not use melamine on the rubber -- this made it look worse in a test section. The Cerakote made it look great: jet black, much shiner, and much more even looking. Not quite "brand new" but far better than I thought possible. I thought I might need to replace the rubber. Now it's looking great next to the jet-black new paint. This afterthought use alone was worth the money. Can you apply a second coat the next day? They don't say you can, and I don't recommend it. This is meant to be one-shot, which is why you should check to make sure you don't miss any spots. I had two areas where I tried a second coat the next day. The first was on the plastic trim between the windshield and the hood. I didn't rub this trim much with melamine beforehand so there was a lighter area (light grey originally, the worst spot) that didn't get as black as the other sections so I did it again, which helped a little, but not much. I didn't wash this area with soap beforehand because I wasn't intending to fix it until I got going. Once you put things back to black you will start noticing other faded things more. Likewise, I did a second coat on the very top of the soft rubber at the bottom of the windows (the part which faces upward and thus gets the most sun), it wasn't as shiny as the other parts, so I went over that section gently again the next day with a fresh towelette. As soon as I did it, I thought it was a mistake. This didn't go well initially because the cured coating is very hydrophobic so the new, wet, Cerakote of the second coat goes on smooth initially and then "puddles up" into little droplets a few minutes later. It doesn't want to stick to the first coat. I thought I had messed it up, but I let it cure a little until the sticky phase, and spread it out again with the towelette. It stayed that time but gathered back a little into some streaks. I spread it once more a few minutes later and it looked good. It stayed even. It looks just fine a few days later, so I think it cured OK. I hope this product last for months as advertised. Even if it doesn't I would totally do it again because the results are superior, I still have half my towelettes left, and the product is not expensive. 10/10 would do again and will recommend to everyone.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on June 25, 2025
R
Verified Purchase
Robert Barger
Draper, US
★★★★★ 5
Easy to use, amazing results
Size: TRIM COAT KIT
This is an awesome product that is easy to use and has amazing results. My plastic trim never looked so good.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on May 14, 2026
N
Verified Purchase
NorthFloridaLT
Phoenix, US
★★★★★ 5
Made My Bumper Look Brand New Again
Size: TRIM COAT KIT, Size: TRIM COAT KIT
I used this on the plastic trim and bumper on my truck, and I’m honestly impressed with how it turned out. The faded areas came back to a deep, rich black and really cleaned up the whole look of the rear end. I prepped everything the right way by washing it first with an all purpose cleaner, then wiping it down with 91% alcohol. I also taped off the surrounding paint and chrome just to be safe. After that, the application was simple and went on smooth without any streaks or blotchy spots. The difference was immediate. What used to look dull and worn now looks factory-fresh again. It also seems to bond well and not just sit on the surface like some cheaper products I’ve tried before. Overall, this was easy to use, gave great results, and made a noticeable improvement. I would definitely use it again on other trim pieces.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on April 12, 2026
E
Verified Purchase
E N.
Carnegie, US
★★★★★ 4
Good product
Size: TRIM COAT KIT
Good coverage. I've had it on for about 10 days, and it's holding up better than any spray product I've used. Not perfect, but none of those streak lines you get with other products. It's been rained on twice so far.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on May 8, 2026
E
Verified Purchase
ernieupton
Pawtucket, US
★★★★★ 5
good product and value
Size: TRIM COAT KIT
worked great on the 10yr old outback. Lasted several months..until we traded it in for a new outback.. will find something else to use it on...!
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on May 20, 2026

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